Anyone who follows the adventure and ultra running community will know about Nicky Spinks and her impressive race and challenge results. Her list of achievements includes setting a new record for the Bob Graham Round in 2015, the first double Ramsay Round in 2018 and the first woman in the 100-mile Arc of Attrition in 2022.
But did you know the start of her long-distance running was in 2004 when she decided to try her first long-distance hill running race, the Heart of Granite, which was part of the Bruce’s Crown event in the Galloway hills?
It seems hard to imagine now but, back then, she was daunted by the shorter 20-mile Heart of Granite. She said: “I was only just starting out with longer hill races then. It seemed like a long way and also a tough challenge because of the type of terrain and navigational aspect.
“I definitely did not feel capable of entering the 46-mile Bruce’s Crown that first year.”
Nicky was also the only woman in a field of 19 entrants in her first attempt in 2004 and claimed first female prize of a book entitled, Cannibal Family of Sawney Bean. (She still owns it.) Nicky did the Heart of Granite again in 2006, after which the event was discontinued.
Rebirth of the Bruce’s Crown
Fast forward some 20 years to this month and Nicky has been the driving force to bring the Bruce’s Crown Race back.
Originally the brainchild of Glyn Jones in the early 1990s, he passed the event to Colin Butler in 2000. Colin organised the race with the two distances – the Heart of granite and longer Bruce’s Crown – every two years until 2006.
Nicky says: “Ever since I did the Heart of Granite, I wanted to try the Bruce’s Crown but Colin didn’t hold the event again after 2006.
“It had been on my mind for years and when I was planning to move house, and closer to the Galloway area of southern Scotland, I decided I would like bring back Bruce’s Crown.
“I had loved the race, even though it was tough. At the time, it was my launch to practising navigation and learning to cope with the tough terrain of these hills, as well as being out at night. It was also held in August and it was hot and midgey, too.
“I wanted to stick as much as possible to the original route with the relaunch of the race and I decided that early summer would be a better time because the vegetation would be as thick and tall and there would be fewer midges.”
Nicky also wanted to introduce a team element to the new Bruce’s Crown, which had previously been for solo competitors.
She said: “The team aspect in races intrigues me and I think it adds something to hill and mountain challenges.
“I think women, in particular, do well in teams because they are good at looking after each other and pacing to suit the team.
“Plus, teams bring greater safety to events that call for people to be out in the hills for long distances.”
Why is it called Bruce’s Crown?
The race takes its name from Bruce’s Stone, which sits at the top of a hill on the north side of Loch Trool. The huge granite boulder commemorates Robert the Bruce’s first victory over an English army in 1307 during the Scottish Wars of Independence. The stone is often a starting point for a walk of Merrick (2764ft/842m), the highest mountain in southern Scotland.
Bruce’s Stone is the final checkpoint in Bruce’s Crown Race.
Bruce’s Crown Race 2024
On April 5, eight teams set off with staggered starts from Caldons, Glen Trool, to try to complete Bruce’s Crown Race in less than 24 hours.
Teams needed to navigate their way around the Galloway hills over the southern peaks of Lamarchan to Cairngarroch, then Rhinnes of Kells to finally cut across to the north end of the Range of the Awful Hand and finish on the highest peak, Merrick, before descending to the finish. The “perfect” route is measured at 46 miles with 4600m of ascent.
The notes of the race stated: “Underfoot conditions will be testing.”
Last weekend, Storm Kathleen also rolled in to make weather conditions very challenging. Wind gusts of up to 100mph were reported and there were many hours of rain. Navigation was required to reach 20 checkpoints, including “Bruce’s Stone”.
All profits went to Galloway Mountain Rescue Team, which also gave their support to the race.
Nicky said: “While I wanted to organise the race, I didn’t want to make any money from it. I am delighted by the support of the MRT and also that the race gives back to the team.”
Results of Bruce’s Crown Race 2024
Only four teams finished. The first team overall was the all-female Girls’ Night Out – including Lisa Watson, Despina Berdeni, Eleanor Johnstone and Holly Clifford – in a time of 14:46:05.
Second was another all-female team, The Four Tussockteers – including Nicky Spinks, Emma Stuart, Kirsty Hewitson and Natalie Hawkrigg – in 15:55:31.
Third was a male team, Seaforth – Alasdair Meldrum, Mark Caldwell, Mark Smith and Aladiar McCallum – in 18:19:11.
In fourth place was a mixed team, the Merrick Muppets – Fiona Horsfield, Matt Newton, Paul Manson and Richard Preston – in 20:04:16.
Alasdair Meldrum, who was part of the third-placed all-male team, congratulated the first and second teams. He said: “We were first male team, but we were properly beaten by two awesome ladies’ teams who showed us how it was done. In particular, Lisa’s team absolutely smashed it. Doing that time in tough conditions and totally unsighted was really impressive.”
‘Winning was the cherry on the cake’
Lisa, who speaks for her whole team, revealed the Girls’ Night Out had a “wild night out in the hills”.
She said: “We battled Storm Kathleen across the Galloway hills and its infamous tussocks, enjoying some seriously interesting terrain. This saw us rolling over tussocks, squeezing though gaps in pine trees in pathless forest and crawling to the top of Merrick in the strong wind.
“We had not recced the course but with the help of Nicky’s cryptic notes [about the race route and CPs] and Ellie’s nav prowess we nailed the nav and even found a sneaky shortcut through firebreaks and a felled forest.
“We had all been a little nervous before the race given the forecast and unknown terrain but we had an absolute blast and coming over the line in first place was the cherry on the cake.”
‘My toughest race ever’
Emma was a member of the second-placed team, which also included Nicky. She revealed “it’s the toughest race I’ve done”, adding: “I can’t explain how brutal I found it – the weather, the nav, the terrain – all of it. However, it was fab working in a team with Nicky, Natalie and Kirsty and I wouldn’t have done it without them.”
Emma also revealed that “the weather took the top spot for the most extreme in any race I’ve done”. She added: “The clag when it got dark made the navigation fun because visibility was reduced to about five metres. Then the rain started as we reached the first aid station and stayed torrential for six whole hours. I got very, very cold.
“The rain subsided shortly before it got light, but then the winds picked up. Staying upright became almost impossible and we fought the wind for hours along the Range of the Awful Hand. The only saving grace was that it wasn’t cold when the rain finally stopped.”
There were highlights, however. Emma says: “I’ve never been to the Galloway Hills and what a surprise I got when daylight unfolded. It is absolutely stunning.
“Yes, the terrain is saturated with water, boggy, tussocky and mostly pathless but the feralness adds to the beauty. I can’t wait to go back.
“I learned a lot from this race, which is I even got to practice my nav in tough but safe conditions, knowing I had backup.
“What’s more incredible is that more women toed the line than men this year.”
‘Oldest team and third – but happy to finish’
Mark Smith, who was part of the third placed all-male team, said: “I think we were all pretty pleased in our team with the outcome of the race. We were the first – and solitary – male-only team and the oldest team in the race, I think. I was just happy to get around.
“I am not even sure the Crown should be approached as a race because it’s more of a crazy adventure that tests your teamwork, navigation skills – in the dark – and resilience, as well as your running ability and mental fortitude.”
Mark also had praise for the organisation of the race. He said: “The MRT were first class and some of them even stayed on the hill tops in difficult weather for hours to see us through. The guys that lit the summit on Meikle Millyea with no shelter were total heroes.
“The aid stations with soup, tea, cakes and warm fires added a really welcome break from the conditions.’
Lisa added her praise of the marshalling. She aid: “The organisation of the race was top-notch. It was low-key and friendly with very welcome hot food and drinks at two CPs. It was a little surreal coming across mountain rescue marshals on remote hilltops, but we felt very well looked after.”
‘It was everything I hoped for’
For Nicky, the race turned out to be as she hoped it would. She said: “The weather was atrocious and we were worried we would need to change to an alternative lower-level route but in the end four teams got a finish within the time. I had recced the route but it was still challenging navigation.
“The first team of ladies were faster runners than we were and they took a different line off one of the hills. I am really happy the first two teams were all-female.
“It’s the best feeling ever to read how the runners loved the race. It makes all the hard work of bringing the event back and the hard work of organising it worthwhile.”
While many competitors have pledged to return next year, others have called for more people to take on the challenge.
Mark said: “I want to say hats off to Nicky for bringing this route back to life. It’s definitely one for the lovers of something a bit different. I have never repeated a race… but I might make an exception for this one.”
Lisa added: “It was exciting that so many ladies took on the course this year – more female competitors than male – and it would be great to see a more teams take on the challenge next year. It’s a unique event and thanks to Nicky and everyone involved for making it happen.”
See full results and route: Open Tracking.
Bruce’s Crown will be back
Bruce’s Crown Race will return in 2025. Keep an eye on the Facebook page and the website.