A new Scottish long-distance walking route, the Fife Pilgrim Way, opened this month. I took the opportunity to be one of the first people to complete the route. This article offers an overview of the Fife Pilgrim Way (FPW).
Also see a more detailed description of the route:
What is the Fife Pilgrim Way?
Between the 11th and 16th centuries, Fife was the one the most popular religious destinations in Scotland. The Kingdom attracted many thousands of pilgrims from across Europe, who made their way through the region on a journey of faith and discovery to reach St Andrews.
The 12th century cathedral at St Andrews, Scotland’s largest although now in ruins, is still impressive. It was once one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Europe.
This modern day route of the Fife Pilgrim Way follows some of the region’s ancient pathways and offers walkers a chance to follow in the footsteps of the medieval travellers.
As I walked the route, I thought about how it would have been for the pilgrims with no maps, limited facilities except for a few hostelries and only basic footwear or bare feet.
For many, the pilgrimages would have taken years as they left Rome or even Jerusalem on their quest for St Andrews. Most crossed into Fife at North Queensferry, which coincides with one of the starting options for the FPW. An alternative start point is Culross.
Wherever you choose to start, the distance in a generally north-easterly direction to reach St Andrews inland over 55 miles.
It is suggested that the full route is divided into five to six days. It is possible to dip in and out of the route and enjoy shorter day or half-day sections.
The FPW visits medieval landmarks and structures, including Dunfermline Abbey, St Drostan’s Tower in Markinch and on to the remarkable St Andrews Cathedral poised on the east coast.
If you start at Culross, you can visit the ancient palace and the abbey. If you start in North Queensferry, you’ll enjoy stunning views of three iconic bridges that span the Firth of Forth, as well as an historic lighthouse and chapel.
As part of the Fife Pilgrim Way project, Fife Coast and Countryside Trust and Fife Cultural Trust have launched a free, travelling exhibition in Mac, Fife’s Mobile Museum. The “Pilgrim Express” will tour Fife for two years. To find out more or to book a visit of the touring museum at a school (for example), email: [email protected].
I bumped into Tom Adams, who works for Fife Cultural Trust and drives Mac, a mobile museum, around Fife. It will be touring for two years telling people about the pilgrims that came to Fife.
Listen to Tom explaining the history of pilgrims in Fife. You even find out why the stick he is holding was so important to the pilgrims, too!
Fife Pilgrim Way received almost £400,000 funding from The National Lottery Heritage Fund Scotland towards the restoration of the route, in addition to contributions from other partners.
The trail is the first long-distance route to open in the Kingdom since the Fife Coastal Path was launched in 2002.
12 highlights of the Fife Pilgrim Way
- A choice of start points at historic Culross or beneath the three Forth bridges.
- Map and signposting make it easy to follow.
- Easy going route with little ascent and descent.
- Mix of tarmac, paths, tracks and a few rougher off-road sections.
- Lots of villages and towns for refreshments and accommodation.
- Different public transport options if you want to do the route section by section.
- Lesser travelled route and often you meet no one else.
- Lots of history and heritage to see and visit along the route.
- Following the steps of ancient travellers.
- Stunning Fife views over undulating countryside, lochs and the coast.
- Plenty of wildlife including butterflies, dragonflies, rabbits, deer and numerous birds, including birds of prey.
- Impressive end point at St Andrews Cathedral.
Brief overview of the route
You can choose to walk section 1 a or b, or both. Then the number of days and sections that you walk will be determined by your fitness levels and the time that you have available.
I am happy to walk up to 25 miles each day if the terrain is flat and easy-going, which the FPW generally is. I would suggest that for people who are used to walking and relatively fit, you will manage the walk over three or four days.
If you prefer to take your time and visit places along the way, allow for five or six days.
The Fife Pilgrim Way also offers a good off-road running route, especially from north of Glenrothes.
You should consider transport options, too. The towns and villages are served by a mix of buses and trains. Note that St Andrews does not have a railway station. The closest is Leuchars. See Traveline Scotland for public transport information.
It is possible to link to the Fife Coastal Path and make a longer circular route. The FPW and the FCP cross at Culross, North Queensferry, Inverkeithing and St Andrews.
The FPW visits plenty of towns and villages en route so overnight accommodation can be booked ahead.
Top tip: Close to the FPW at Cupar is a beautiful self-catering accommodation: Cupar Burgh Chambers, owned by Fife Historic Buildings. It has two en-suite double rooms and a stunning living-dining-kitchen room. You could stay here for a few days and travel to different sections of the FPW.
There are also a number of official campsites. I have been asked about wild camping, which should also be possible but it might be more difficult in built up areas closer to towns. Fife has a lot of farmland and you should follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code when wild camping.
The route is fairly flat and the terrain is a mix of tarmac, tracks, paths and some rougher sections.
The route is fully signposted and mostly very easy to follow. An accompanying map, made in a water-resistant material, is a vital partner to this walk.
The Fife Pilgrim Way is aimed at walkers, rather than cyclists although I saw a few people on mountain bikes exploring sections of the route.
A Fife Pilgrim Way book, priced £14.99, and written by Ian Bradley, Emeritus Professor of Cultural and Spiritual History at the University of St Andrews, offers extra insight into the history of the Way. Buy the book.
Other items for purchase include a Fife Pilgrim Way passport and pin badge.
The Fife Pilgrim Way in sections
Section 1 (a) North Queensferry to Dunfermline
8.5 miles (13.7km) with 210m of ascent
Terrain: Mostly tarmac with a few short sections of track and rougher unmade paths.
The start is beneath the three iconic bridges that span the Firth of Forth. The bridges include, the Forth Bridge (1890), which carries the railway line to Fife, Perth and the north; the suspension Forth Road Bridge (1964); and the newest, Queensferry Crossing (2017).
As you walk, the coastal views expand and you’ll see islands as well as the chance to spot sea birds and marine life.
The route passes through Inverkeithing, with medieval Hospitium of the Grey Friars (a friary), where pilgrims would have rested.
Next is Rosyth and then through woodland and farmland to Dunfermline.
Section 1 (b) Culross to Dunfermline
8.5 miles (13.7km) with 190m of ascent
Terrain: Mostly tarmac with a few short sections of track and rougher unmade paths.
This is the western start of the route and I chose to start at Culross because I was keen to see the famous medieval abbey, St Mungo’s Chapel and the 16th century Mercat Cross.
The path starts along the northern shore of the Firth of Forth with views over the sea before heading inland from Torryburn to pass through several villages en route for Dunfermline.
The route follows a mix of roads and tracks between villages and interspersed with farmland and woodland.
The first glimpse of Dunfermline Abbey can be seen across rolling farmland just after the village of Crossford.
Top tip: In villages and towns, keep a careful eye out for the Fife Pilgrim Way signs attached to lamp-posts. Occasionally I missed one of these and ended up having to back track to find the route again. It is easier to follow the sign posts on rural tracks because there are less options compared to the multiple streets in more urban places.
Section 3: Dunfermline to Kelty
8.5 miles (13.7km) with 190m of ascent
Terrain: More paths in this section. Mostly they are tracks or fairly flat “made-up” paths.
Take your time to look around Dunfermline, where there is an impressive abbey and various pilgrimage sites associated with St Margaret.
After Dunfermline, the route heads towards Kingseat and then along a short stretch of shore on Loch Fitty to enter Blairadam Forest. The woodland is surprisingly peaceful.
Between the loch and forest is an interesting post-industrial landscape on the site of what was once a busy open-cast mine.
This section finishes at Kelty, although if you plan to walk on to Glenrothes, you will mostly avoid the former coal mining village.
Section 4: Kelty to Glenrothes
11.5 miles (18.5km) with 150m of ascent
Terrain: A mix of paths, tarmac, unmade path and a couple of sections of rougher paths, including walking along the edge of fields of crops and a short but steep hill climb.
From Kelty, the route heads into Lochore Meadows Country Park with a wildlife reserve and viewing hides.
As you leave the park you’ll pass the remains of Lochore castle, one of Fife’s former strongholds.
Heading into the country there is plenty to enjoy with wildflowers and views of an undulating landscape.
A pavement alongside a busier road leads to Kinglassie where pilgrims once visited the church and nearby Finglassin’s Well, claimed to have healing powers.
A hill climb offers detour to the well before the route turns eastwards towards Glenrothes along the edge of fields of crops and eventually alongside the River Leven near Leslie.
There is a well-made riverside path to walk to gain on Glenrothes.
Section 5: Glenrothes to Kennoway
8.5 miles (13.7km) with 80m of ascent
Terrain: Mix of well-made paths, tarmac sections and some rougher terrain.
Walkers follow paths and minor roads for a short section between the town of Glenrothes and the outlying settlement of Markinch and on through Balbirnie Park. The route passes Balbirnie stone circle, revealing early human settlement dating back to 3000BC from the Neolithic period.
Top tip: Look carefully for FPW signs amid the other route waymarkers in the park.
Markinch is home to a 12th century church tower, which is usually open with a historical display plus on-going archaeology.
A more rural path, rougher in places, leads to the villages of Windygates and then Kennoway.
Section 6: Kennoway to Ceres
8.5 miles (13.7km) with 280m of ascent
Terrain: Wide tracks and sections of rougher path, although never challenging.
The FPW heads into a more sustained section of countryside from Kennoway and to the outskirts of St Andrews. The walking is undulating and with wonderful views of typical Fife farmland.
At first, the tracks climb through farmland to Devon Wood before crossing a hill to descend to Clatto Den and a reservoir.
A section from Muirhead to Ceres follows the medieval pilgrimage route known as Waterless Road, so-called because it runs along a high ridgeline that would have been drier underfoot.
The path approaches the picturesque historic village of Ceres and passes a folk museum and the 17th century Bishop Bridge.
Top tip: The café at the folk museum was vey busy. I headed instead for he Village Café in the centre of the settlement. It is excellent with fantastic cakes and friendly service.
Section 7: Ceres to St Andrews
9.5 miles (15.3km) with 180m of ascent
Terrain: Tracks, rougher paths and a couple of short sections on the side of quiet roads.
From Ceres, the route meanders through lovely open countryside gradually gaining height. There is a constant promise of reaching the highest point and then being able to see the sea and St Andrews in the distance.
When the view finally comes, over St Andrews Bay, it is breath-taking.
Reaching the outskirts of St Andrews, the route takes walkers through Craigtoun Country Park. It’s a busy place with plenty for families to enjoy.
Heading into the historic coastal town, a path runs behind houses and alongside Kinness Burn. It is a popular place for dog walkers and chatty students.
Finally, reaching the main streets of St Andrews, Fife Pilgrim Way signposts lead you to the magnificent ruins of St Andrews Cathedral, which offers a poignant finish point for this long-distance walk. Also worth seeing is St Rule’s Tower, to the south east of the cathedral, and St Mary’s Church, just outside the precinct wall. Nearby is St Andrews Castle and the beautiful sandy bay of the West Sands.
For more details read two more blog poss:
Also find out more at Fife Pilgrim Way on Facebook and via this on-line shop. Also see Fife Pilgrim Way overview.