This article gives an overview of the route from Glenrothes to St Andrews, which is a total distance of 26.5 miles (42.6km). This can be walked over two or three days.
Also read Fife Pilgrim Way in two halves: Culross to Glenrothes.
For details of the background to the FPW and an outline of the sections of the walk see:
Fife Pilgrim Way: A new long-distance walk for Scotland.
Glenrothes to Kennoway
8.5 miles (13.7km) with 80m of ascent
Terrain: Mix of well-made paths, tarmac sections and some rougher terrain.
Walkers follow paths and minor roads for a short section between the town of Glenrothes and the outlying settlement of Markinch and through Balbirnie Park.
The route passes Balbirnie stone circle, revealing early human settlement dating back to 3000BC from the Neolithic period.
Top tip: Look carefully for FPW signs amid the other route waymarkers in the park.
Markinch is home to St Drostan’s Parish Church and a remarkable 12th century church tower, which is usually open with a historical display plus on-going archaeology.
The church was originally dedicated to St Drostan but later in the 13th century a re-dedication to St John the Baptist took place.
General Sir Alexander Leslie, Lord General of the Covenanter Army, bought Balgonie Castle in 1635. He was given the title of First Earl of Leven and Lord Balgonie in 1641 and died in 1661. He is buried somewhere in St Drostan’s Parish Church.
A more rural path, rougher in places, leads to the villages of Windygates and then Kennoway.
This section is mainly rural and has only 80m of total ascent so it provides easy-going walking.
Kennoway to Ceres
8.5 miles (13.7km) with 280m of ascent
Terrain: Wide tracks and sections of rougher path, although never challenging.
The FPW heads into a more sustained section of countryside from Kennoway and to the outskirts of St Andrews, via Ceres. The walking is undulating and with wonderful views of typical Fife farmland.
Top tip: The next place for refreshments is Ceres, so be sure to take snacks and water along with you.
At first, the track climbs through wildlife rich farmland to Devon Wood before crossing a hill to descend to Clatto Den and a reservoir.
Look out for buzzards above Devon Woods and, in spring and summer, as you descend into the shaded Clatto den, you’ll see multiple butterflies, dragonflies and an array of colourful wild flowers and ferns. I was a delight to spot swallows as well. The den and nearby reservoir are real gems for walkers.
A section from Muirhead to Ceres follows the medieval pilgrimage route known as Waterless Road, so called because it runs along a high ridgeline that would have been drier underfoot.
Today, this section is a path alongside fields with fine country views.
The path approaches the picturesque historic village of Ceres and passes a folk museum and a 17th century packhorse bridge, Bishop’s Bridge.
Top tip: The café at the folk museum was vey busy. I headed instead for the Village Café in the centre of the settlement. It is excellent with fantastic cakes and friendly service.
Ceres is one of a few Scottish villages to have a village green, known as “Bow Butts” because it was used as an archery practice ground in medieval times.
The village is dominated by the Parish Church and it boasts what is claimed to be the shortest High Street in Scotland, comprising just a few houses on each side.
A monument, erected in 1914, commemorates the men of Ceres who fought in the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. There is also an 18th century statue of “The Provost”. It is thought to depict the Rev Thomas, who became the last church provost of Ceres in 1578. The figure portrays him as a Toby jug and is said to be satirical.
Ceres to St Andrews
9.5 miles (15.3km) with 180m of ascent
Terrain: Tracks, rougher paths and a couple of short sections on the side of roads. There is more tarmac on this section than the previous couple of sections with the route following quiet country roads.
From Ceres, take care to find the right signs for the FPW. Look for a sign that heads along School Hill, to walk out of the village. The route meanders through lovely open countryside gradually gaining height.
At first on a track, the route heads on to quiet country roads.
There is a constant promise of reaching the highest point and then being able to see the sea and St Andrews in the distance.
It must have been the same for the pilgrims in times past, although their journey from Europe, or perhaps Israel, would have been far longer, more arduous and tiring. It is difficult to imagine how they must have felt as they reached the edge of Fife and St Andrews.
It was a hot day as my friend Ben and I walked this section and we were dreaming of an ice cream.
This section was very pleasant with views that are typical of Fife; rolling fields of lush crops and grass and gentle hills unfolding in the distance.
The road sides were filled with pretty wildflowers and grasses and we were surprised by the number of tiny settlements of houses so close to St Andrews, yet seemingly so remote.
Then, when the view finally came, out over St Andrews Bay it was breath-taking.
Reaching the outskirts of St Andrews, the route takes walkers through Craigtoun Country Park. It’s a busy place with plenty for families to enjoy.
Top tip: Enjoy an ice cream at the park if the weather is fine.
Heading into the historic coastal town, the FPW joins The Lade Braes Walk. The 1.5 mile walk joins the town centre with Law Mill and follows the route of an old mill lade with its origins dating back to the middle ages. Much of the walk also runs alongside Kinness Burn.
Did you know?: The word “lade” means a watercourse created to lead water from a mill pond above a watermill. The word “braes” is the Scots word meaning high ground usually near a river or in this case a burn.
Today, Lades Braes Walk is popular with dog walkers and chatty students from the university town.
Finally, reaching the main streets of St Andrews, the Fife Pilgrim Way signposts lead you to the magnificent ruins of St Andrews Cathedral, which offers a poignant finish point for this long-distance walk.
The site of St Andrews Cathedral was used for worship since the 700s, when St Andrew’s relics are said to have been brought here.
The Roman Catholic cathedral was built in 1158 as the largest church ever to been constructed in Scotland during its time. Construction went on for more than a century.
The cathedral dominated Scottish religion until 1560, as headquarters of the medieval Scottish Church, and was the seat of Scotland’s leading bishops, and, from 1472, archbishops.
Although now in ruins, the building is still very impressive.
Also nearby are St Rule’s Tower, to the south east of the cathedral, and St Mary’s Church, just outside the precinct wall.
You could spend a lot of time in the town, also visiting other heritage gems such as St Andrews Castle, and walking the beautiful sandy bay of the West Sands.
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