Quinag, a triple Corbett mountain range in Assynt, Sutherland, had long been on my bucket list. I have seen the stunning Y-shaped crest of mountains from other Assynt mountains, such as Suilven and Canisp, and also driven past the range from the east. But I wanted to reserve this walk for a day of fine weather. I knew the views would be sublime, so it was not a route to do in cloudy or rainy conditions. The perfect day arrived on Saturday.
Accompanied by Hubby G, my Corbett bagging friend Ben, and two local friends, Claire and Rachel, we made the two-hour drive to the west coast, from Inverness, via Ullapool.
The weather was very promising and although a little chilly when we set off for the walk from the car park off the A894 – it is clearly signposted for the Quinag – we enjoyed a blue sky and very little wind.
Did you know?: The name Quinag is an anglicisation of the Gaelic name Cuinneag, which means a milk pail. This is a reflection of the shape of the mountain range.
Three Corbetts of the Quinag
It is fairly unusual when bagging the 222 Corbetts to be able to easily reach three in one area. Corbetts, which are defined as being Scottish mountains between 2500ft (762m) and 3000ft (914m) stature and with a prominence of at least 500ft (152m), are commonly walked as single mountains.
The Quinag includes: Spidean Coinich (764m), Sail Ghorm (776m) and Sail Gharbh (809m). We completed a circuit in a clockwise direction and very similar to the suggested route by Walk Highlands. It would be reasonable to do the circuit the other way round, too.
The walk along a path towards the mountain range offered spectacular views from the outset. Assynt is one of my favourite areas in Scotland because of the fabulous scenery.
The other-worldly Assynt landscape is dominated by Inselbergs, or “island mountains”, which is the geological term to describe the many isolated peaks created from Torridonian Sandstone and laid down as sand in rivers more than 1000 million years ago.
Erosion through many ice ages exposed and carved the mountains of rock to create the unique and distinctive Assynt landscape. The mountains also sit on an even older Lewisian base rock, which forms the “cnoc and lochan” landscape, also characteristic of the Assynt area.
The closer we got to the Quinag range, the greater the sense of amazement of being in such a superlative natural environment.
First Quinag Corbett: Spidean Coinich
The path to Quinag is obvious and has been built and maintained by the John Muir Trust, which owns and manages the mountain range.
You can see the first Corbett, Spidean Coinich rising up to the west. At an obvious cairn, take the left fork. The route upwards is on a stony terrain with many large slabs of rocks.
From around 600m, the path descends for a short while and then climbs again. There are two cairns at the summit and there are superb views in all directions.
Looking west, we could see the humped-back outline of Suilven with numerous other peaks and ranges spreading out as far as they eye can see. The coastline is spectacular in north-west Scotland and, in Assynt, the land between mountains and sea is dotted with numerous lochs and lochans.
We all stopped for a while to absorb the views and have a bite to eat.
Second Quinag Corbett: Sail Ghorm
There is an obvious path heading north-west off the summit of Spidean Coinich. The descent is fairly steep before it joins a ridge that undulates north. There were many ups and downs over almost 3km, taking in the north top of Spidean Coinich at more than 700m height and then a narrower section.
The route descends steeply to a bealach at about 570m elevation and then on towards a junction for the ridges of the Quinag. We headed further north and upwards again, before walking downhill.
Claire had remembered that when she had previously walked this route, there was a a huge rock that juts out of the mountain range with a sheer drop beneath. And suddenly we saw it.
As you will know if you follow this website, I am not a fan of heights.
As an example, read about my half traverse of the Cuillin Ridge.
So, the projecting rocky ridge gave me the fear immediately. Rachel, then Ben and Gordie walked calmly along the short ridge to reach the overhanging rock. Claire followed using her hands to stabilise her. I wasn’t sure if I would manage it, but I tried and also used my hands. I decided to remain seated at the end for a photo and I could not contemplate standing up. I don’t even like G standing close to the edge. It is a strange fear, but one that feels very real to me.
Our group walked on northward again. The ascent was fairly steep at first and then became more gradual as we climbed and crested many high points before finally seeing the summit cairn ahead.
Although this was the longest section between the three Corbetts, there was nothing to complain about. As we walked, we chatted and enjoyed the incredible vistas in all directions.
So many times, we each commented on how pleased we were to be on this mountain range in brilliant weather.
For Claire, too, it was a very special birthday outing!
The summit of Sail Ghorm is on a large plateau and offers impressive views of the coast, looking out to west coast islands. We also spotted the Kylesku bridge to the north-east and far below.
Third Quinag Corbett: Sail Gharbh
To reach the third Quinag Corbett, which is also the taller of the trio, we retraced out steps back to the ridge junction.
Various paths then ascend eastwards on the final climb to Sail Gharbh. Again, there are many different paths to choose from but all lead eventually to the summit.
We all stopped again for a sit down and to enjoy the expansive views.
Return from the Quinag
We descended back the way we had came to a bealach at about 700m elevation and then followed a path downhill travelling south-west, steeply at first, before heading more gently south-east.
The walk back towards the car park is around 3.5km and while it felt quite long, we were also treated to an amazing view of the steep east flank of Spidean Coinich.
I found myself looking between the base of the glen, where the road became closer and closer but ever so slowly, and then back over my shoulder to where the magnificent Quinag range diminished behind us.
The path passes the junction where we had earlier turned left at a cairn and heads on to the roadside – and then to the Quinag car park.
I am so pleased I saved this fantastic walk of Quinag, an iconic Assynt mountain range, for a beautiful day and also that I could enjoy it with Hubby G and some lovely friends.
Route details: Quinag Corbetts
Distance: 14.5km
Total ascent: 1200m
Corbetts bagged: 100, 101 and 102.