The coast of Angus, in eastern Scotland, is a beautiful destination. I planned an adventure to cycle, kayak and run it in a day. This article appeared in the Scots Magazine. If you would like to read more, why not buy a subscription?
Angus coast by bike, kayak and run
I could have easily driven the length of the Angus coast in less than 40 minutes – instead, I chose to fully immerse myself in a journey by bike, kayak and on foot.
The aim of the one-day adventure was to experience the landscape and coast up-close and in a region I have rarely visited.
Too frequently, it seems, we are in a hurry to travel when we could slow down and better enjoy the sights, sounds and points of interest at first hand.
For the A-to-B multi-sport trip, I enlisted the help of a friend to deliver items of kit to me each time I changed mode of transport, plus I booked a paddling outing with Arbroath Cliff Tours.
Montrose bike start
The start point was Montrose, just after 9.30am, where I eyed the haar rolling in from sea and I wondered nervously if it would bring rain, or, more hopefully, disappear to reveal sunshine.
The town, which was once a thriving fishing port, is home to an unusual landmark located on the northern shore of the River South Esk and close to the harbour.
The Bamse memorial remembers a hero sea dog, a St Bernard, that was owned by Captain Hafto from the Norwegian Navy during World War II. Bamse went to sea on the mine-sweeper Thorodd, stationed for a time in Montrose, and achieved legendary status as a naval mascot.
The Bamse statue faces towards Norway and it was a fitting start to my coastal adventure given that I was going to be looking out to the North Sea for most of the day.
I rode out of Montrose on the National Cycle Network (NCN) Route 1 then detoured on a rough path to reach Scurdie Ness. The headland on the opposite bank of the river estuary is home to a lighthouse, built in 1870 by David and Thomas Stevenson, who were the sons of the more famous engineer, Robert Stevenson.
Back on Route 1, quiet roads took me further south skirting around rolling fields, through farmland and past scattered houses. While chilly in the coastal haar, the mist added atmosphere to the views.
I enjoyed a few easy gradient climbs to warm up and then some lovely descents. After one longer climb, a delightful free-wheeling downhill took me to Lunan Bay. The wide beach is backed by sand dunes and framed by low cliffs to the north and south. I left my bike on a viewing deck for a stroll by the sea.
The ruin of Red Castle sits on a hill overlooking the bay. It dates from the 12th century and was built for King William (the Lion) of Scotland to defend against Viking invaders. Only a tower added in the 15th century now remains but the fortification was a striking sight as I cycled by on my onward journey.
Route 1 took me away from the coast for a while and between undulating farmland. The longest ascent of the 28km (17-mile) cycling section came next, although I never needed my easiest gear.
I stopped to look across fields, allowing my eyes to focus along lines between young crops and out to sea. Strips of sunlight spread out from below the clouds and lit the distant horizon. The layers of cloud, sky and light were beautiful against green fields.
Turning off Route 1 to the east, the road descended to the coastal village of Auchmithie.
From bike to kayak
My friend arrived and, as I swapped from cycling to kayaking kit, the founder of Arbroath Cliff Tours, Cameron Smith, met me.
Our craft was a two-person sit-on kayak, which allowed us to paddle along a coast of spectacular cliffs and rock architecture.
Cameron, who is a local to the area, pointed out numerous geological highlights and guided us into stunning caves, including Brandy Cave, which was once used by smugglers, and Gaylet Pot with a long tunnel leading to a beach. Another cave extends to more than 300ft long with amazing stalactites.
We also spotted Deil’s Heid, which is a sea stack so-called because it looks like a devil’s head, and Needle’s Eye, which takes the form of a giant hole in rocks.
The noise of screeching seabirds, resident on high cliffs, was deafening at times.
I felt like the 5km (3 miles) sea journey to Arbroath was over too quickly – and it was time again to switch my mode of transport. I changed from wetsuit to running kit to start the 23km (14 mile) run from Arbroath to the end point at Monifieth.
Kayak to run on the Angus coast
As I waved goodbye to my luggage transport friend, I jogged west and into the centre of Arbroath. The sun had finally burned off the clouds and I became suddenly hot and tired.
Passing the old harbour, I spotted a bench to sit on and enjoy more sea views. I refuelled with snacks and water – and felt almost immediately revived.
NCN Route 1 took me to West Links beach, just west of Arbroath, which is a lovely stretch of sand. I enjoyed the sight of the gentle waves repeating on the sand as I headed between the beach and Arbroath Golf Course.
East Haven beach came next with a gorgeous arc of sand backed by low dunes. A chainsaw carving remembers the role of fishing in the development of the community here. East Haven is one of the earliest recorded fishing communities in Scotland and dates to 1214.
Continuing along the coast, although a little further inland, I ran on to reach West Haven and then into the eastern end of the famous golf town of Carnoustie. There is another superb beach in the middle of the town that stretches south and along the coast to wrap around Buddon Ness.
The headland of heath and dunes is home to Barry Links, which is largely occupied by a military training area and Barry Buddon Camp and, therefore, inaccessible to the public. Instead, I ran along a path on the outside of a high perimeter fence.
It was late afternoon by this point and my weary body was keenly looking ahead to catch a glimpse of Monifieth. Another popular golf destination, the town grew in the 18th and 19th centuries based on a whale and sea industry, then prospered with the jute boom of Victorian times.
The boundary between Monifieth and Broughty Ferry is also the edge of Angus and the City of Dundee, where my self-created finish line was located. The total distance was 35 miles (56km) and at no point had I felt hurried as I cycled, kayaked and ran. I reflected that it had been an immensely rewarding journey because I’d travelled at a speed that allowed me to feel immersed in my surroundings.
Fascinating facts
- It’s claimed that Auchmithie, rather than Arbroath, is the location for the first recorded reference of “smokie” (smoked haddock) in 1842.
- Arbroath is home to the famous Arbroath Abbey, where in 1320 the Declaration of Arbroath was signed.
Alternative ideas
- A solo trip, without the transportation of kit by a friend, is possible if you take clothing changes in a rucksack or bike panniers. Return by train.
- Cycle the length of Angus on NCN Route 1. Return by train.
Contacts
Kit for Angus coast end-to-end: Cycle, kayak, run
- Bike section
- Road bike or gravel bike
- Cycle helmet
- Cycling clothing and shoes
- Waterproof jacket
- Puncture repair kit
- Pump
- Rucksack
- Flashing rear read light
- Kayak section
- Sit-on kayak, paddle and cagoule (supplied by Arbroath Cliff Tours)
- Wetsuit / drysuit
- Buoyancy aid
- Neoprene socks/water shoes
- Waterproof bag for phone
- Drybag for spare clothes
- Run section
- Running clothes
- Waterproof jacket
- Running shoes
- Rucksack
- Other kit
- Smart phone
- Sports watch to record /follow route
- Map / OS Map app
- Water
- Snacks.