Launching our kayaks from a jetty at the southern end of the fishing village of Shieldaig on Scotland’s north-west coast, Gordie and I, plus two friends Kevin and Rosie, take our first paddle strokes in a mirror calm sea.
Hugging the shoreline, heading north for short while, we survey almost the full length of the small settlement, taking in an arc of traditional white houses nestled on the edge of the Atlantic and below steep-sided mountains.
Even at 9am, the sun is warm and the sky is a bright blue with wisps of high cloud.
Now turning north-westerly, we make our way towards Shieldaig Island, around a quarter of a mile, from the mainland.
The isle, which is covered in tall Scots Pines, is a breeding spot for white-tailed sea eagles and almost immediately Gordie spots the silhouette of a large bird of prey perched on a high branch. We stop for a while, hoping to see the eagle take flight but it’s clearly quite content to stay put. For a number of years, pairs of sea eagles have nested using an old heronry site.
We return our eyes to the sea again, paddling along the edge of the isle’s rocky southern shore and keeping our eyes peeled for other wildlife known to inhabit the National Trust for Scotland-owned island, including seabirds, seals and otters.
Our aim is to reach another small coastal settlement, Lower Diabaig, further north along the rugged, sea loch indented coastline of Wester Ross, in time for lunch at a much-acclaimed restaurant. The only issue is we’ve heard that tables and opening hours can be limited.
Fortunately, the sea is almost flat as we progress into winder Loch Shieldaig and we are blessed with a light tailwind, so progress feels fairly easy.
We split into pairs to chat and I listen to Rosie as she tells me about her many kayaking adventures in Scotland and abroad. I’m still relatively new to sea kayaking and she also offers me tips and advice on improving my paddling technique for greater efficiency.
The sea is choppier as we cross a narrow channel between Loch Shieldaig and Upper Loch Torridon, so we are grateful to be leeward of the mainland shore again just a short while later.
From here, we follow a course alongside high, rough crags, where the land drops into sea, and around rocks and tiny islets. The water-and-rock terrain provides a fun playground for kayaks and we enjoy chasing and surfing small waves.
As we emerge from one narrow section, we are all suddenly alerted to Rosie, who is shouting excitedly: “A whale! Look! A whale!,” Turning quickly in her direction, I call back: “Where? Where?” Gordon and Kevin do the same.
We halt our paddling and stare hard across the ocean where Rosie is pointing, all of us searching hopefully for a glimpse of the large mammal. Unfortunately, it seems, the brief breach caught by Rosie is going to be the marine creature’s only appearance.
Disappointed, although thrilled for Rosie, we agree we should paddle on. In any case, there is plenty more wildlife to see. We’ve already enjoyed the company of several curious seals, while the loch is a haven for myriad seabirds.
Now a couple of hours into our adventure, we make brief stop to stretch our legs and eat a snack at a stony beach. Launching our kayaks once again, we continue along the coast until we can see a line of small white buildings. The tiny hamlet of Lower Diabaig sits prettily on the shore’s edge backed by tall crags.
Lower Diabaig is usually reached by visitors at the end of a long singletrack road that undulates repeatedly before suddenly dropping down to sea level. Today, our arrival is at a beach in a small horseshoe-shaped bay, where we alight our kayaks and walk a dozen or so metres to Gille Brighde Restaurant, located in The Old Schoolhouse.
We find a seat outside and make orders from a menu of seasonal dishes, before enjoying a leisurely meal.
Our only task left for the rest of the day is to return to Sheildaig, except as soon as we start the afternoon’s paddle I realise this is going to be much more challenging.
Tip: You could choose to extend your kayaking trip further north from Diabaig to Craig, where there is a mountain bothy that was once the UK’s most remote youth hostel.
At once, I can feel the morning’s miles in many muscles throughout my body and I have to adjust in my seat to find a more comfortable position, while also repositioning my hands on the shaft of my paddle. I think over the tips suggested earlier by Rosie – and later by Kevin – and focus on engaging my core, straightening my arms and making wider sweeps through the paddling movement. My stroke is immediately more relaxed, although I also realise we are now heading into a strengthening wind.
Our original plan to cross Loch Torridon to the opposite coastline back to Shieldaig is abandoned and we stick to the more sheltered route that we arrived along.
This decision also allows us to make a short tour later on into Upper Loch Torridon, where we are rewarded with spectacular views of the many mountains of Torridon. The vista includes the recognisable jagged ridge of Liathach and the high hump of Beinn Eighe.
However, the sea in the vast sea loch is instantly much choppier and no one needs to be persuaded to turn around. We enjoy a spell of faster paddling, with the wind again to our advantage, although in rough waters.
Our return to Loch Shieldaig is via a narrow gap of land before we turn south into Loch Shieldaig again.
In the distance, the still tiny shapes of Sheildaig’s houses come into view but for a long stretch they do not appear to be getting any closer. The wind has strengthened throughout the day and it’s a hard work paddling towards the village. I am feeling very fatigued and it takes all my focused effort to keep up with the other three.
I wonder if they are also struggling, or if their kayaking experience and greater skill are now at the fore. In any case, the final push across the sea loch and eventually to the flatter waters in the bay of Sheildaig seems to take forever.
When we set out, Gordon had suggested the outing might total around six or seven miles and we would be back by early afternoon. In fact, my watch tells me we have journeyed closer to 12 miles – and the entire day has slipped by in one satisfying big adventure.
Did you know?: Shieldaig dates from the early 1800s, during the height of the Napoleonic Wars, when he Royal Navy established the village as a training base for sailors to combat the French. However, before the seamen were called to service, Napoleon was defeated and Shieldaig a busy herring fishing village. Today, fishing, as well as tourism, still brings in an income for locals, although the catches are now salmon, mussels and prawns.
Kit list for summer day of kayaking
- Sea kayak
- Spraydeck
- Paddle
- Spare paddle
- Paddle float
- Buoyancy aid
- Bilge pump
- Waterproof jacket / drysuit
- Neoprene shorts
- Neoprene shoes or boots
- Gloves or paddle mitts
- Spare clothing
- Insulated jacket
- Food and water
- Phone
- PLB (personal Locator Beacon)