Skiing off the edge of a groomed piste in the Norwegian resort of Myrkdalen, my friend Alice and I find ourselves suddenly surrounded by a winter wonderland.
Gliding down a gently sloping snow-field of light, fresh powder, we are quickly absorbed into a natural environment that is so pristine and peaceful we feel compelled to mouth “wow” at each other, rather than break the silence.
Ahead, our guide Derek skis wide zig-zags, indicating that the gradient is set to steepen, before he comes to a halt beside a simple wooden hut at the base of a mountain.
Alice and I soon join him and then, as we switch our equipment from downhill to uphill skiing mode, we give in to the need to chat about our location.
We are amazed that while we are still so close to Myrkdalen resort, in the picturesque region of western Norway, we are now seemingly so far removed.
Ahead we can see only empty hills and mountains covered in thick, untouched snow. The sky is a brightening blue and we judge that we will need few layers of clothing as we begin a long ski-walk to the first summit.
The activity of skiing uphill is not difficult to learn although it does take fitness and energy. We have attached “skins” – strips of fabric – to the base of our skis to provide traction on the snow.
Our ski boots are now unfixed at the heel to enable us to step and slide upwards, while ski poles in both hands help to propel us and aid balance.
The process is rhythmically mediative – and with Derek taking the lead, Alice and I follow in his ski lines enjoying ever greater tranquility and even wider and more impressive views of rolling mountains cut deeply by tree-lined fjords.
We all carry avalanche safety equipment including transceivers, snow probes and shovels in our backpacks.
Despite feeling so remote, the landscape is perfect for a wide range of ski tours, from those still learning back country skiing to more experienced skiers looking for long-distance tours.
The gradients are rarely steep, the snow coverage is usually good winter-long and there is no need to climb too high.
Indeed, on our day’s tour, we ascend only 700 metres in total and reach a high point of 1100m – some 250m lower than the tallest UK mountain of Ben Nevis.
Our total distance is a comfortable 15km.
Compared to ski touring in many areas of Scotland, the effort and terrain is gratifyingly easy-going. It’s most notable when skiing downhill on snow that is silky soft and cuts easily like thick cream.
Experienced ski tourers, who are capable navigators and with knowledge of off-piste perils, are unlikely to require a guide. Although, to be sure of a rewarding route – or in inclement conditions – it’s well worth taking the lead of a local skier.
Derek’s knowledge ensures we are treated to the best snow, the most superlative vistas, wildlife spotting tips and information about history and culture.
He is also a good gauge of fitness and suggests, mid-afternoon, that we might like to ski back to the resort.
Our legs are grateful for this decision and we complete another swift downhill run on fresh snow then return to the resort as easily as we skied out.
During our five-day trip, Alice and I also spend an enjoyable day ski-exploring the in-resort slopes of Myrkdalen, where there are 22 groomed runs extend to a total of 30km. The slopes, which rise a high point of 1060m, are served byTt-bars and two express chairlifts.
A large family-friendly four-star hotel sits at the resort base at 450m elevation with the bonus of being able to ski straight to – and from – the slopes.
Myrkdalen also has a freestyle skiing area and a ski jump hill, plus 5km of groomed Nordic skiing trails.
One afternoon, Alice and I again slip easily out the edge the resort, this time from higher up the slopes at around 1000m elevation. Switching to uphill ski-walking mode we enjoy a gentle ascent to the 1358m summit of local mountain, Finnbunnuten.
In less than an hour, we transition to downhill skiing again to whizz back to the resort.
It feels safe and companionable alongside other skiers doing the same – and the crisp, clear air affords us wide-sweeping views over snowy peaks.
During our time in western Norway, we also stay in Voss, a ski town only 35km north by road and linked by a free skiers’ bus. A modern gondola takes visitors from the town centre to a resort with 16 groomed runs extending to a total of 40km and rising to a high point of almost 1000m.
Neither Myrkdalen nor Voss are big, nor high, by European alpine standards but rather I would class them as small and perfectly packaged. The pistes major on easy to intermediate skiing, with a few flattering black-graded runs.
Voss also gives access to an extensive arena of back-country skiing but a sudden dump of snow during our stay means the mountains are shrouded in thick clouds and visibility is reduced.
We make the most of the fresh white stuff with run after run of entertaining and adrenaline-boosting within the resort’s boundaries.
As the trip comes to an end, we wonder if we have been lucky with the snow, the skiing conditions and the opportunity for such variety. Apparently not, we learn.
While this area of Norway is only a relatively short hop across the North Sea from Scotland – it’s just an hour’s flight from Aberdeen to Bergen and then just over an hour’s train journey – its location slightly further north-east brings the benefits of much more consistent snow, as well as seemingly more frequent sunny days.
According to figures recorded over there last decade, Myrkdalen and Voss enjoy an average annual snowfall of 500cm and it’s easy to believe the claim of “more snow than almost anywhere else in Europe”.
The snowfall is a surprising discovery and Alice and I comment frequently about how “Scottish” the landscape looks, but with a thicker covering of snow.
Another revelation is the depreciation of the Norwegian kroner in recent years, which has led to the famously expensive Nordic country becoming more affordable for tourists. Food, clothing, accommodation, ski passes and hire all seem relatively reasonable.
Our only regret is that we wish we had discovered this gem of a skiing destination earlier.
Take a tour: The Park Hotel, which is scheduled for a major revamp, in Voss is home to a surprising attraction: One of the world’s largest wine cellars. You can take a wine tasting tour and see some of the stock of 47,000 bottles. See: parkvoss.no/en/wine-cellar/
Norway in a Nutshell
Alice and I took off a day off our skis for a “Norway in a Nutshell” tour. This included a two-hour fjord cruise from Gudvangen to Flåm.
The electric boat cruise took us through UNESCO-protected Nærøyfjord. It was sublimely beautiful sailing along the calm waters of the fjord and between steep-sided mountains.
At Flåm, we boarded a vintage train on the famously scenic Flåm Railway that climbs 20km to Myrdal at a height of 867m.
There is a bus and train at Voss that connects with this trip.
See Norways Best.
Travel notes
The ski season in western Norway is from November to May.
Fly Aberdeen to Bergen with Widerøe. The Norwegian airline has daily flights, starting from £97 one-way. See: Wideroe.
From Bergen airport, regular trams head to Bergen centre (£3.26) and then a train to Voss (£41 single/£82 return). See Norway Trains at Norway Trains.
For accommodation options at four-star Myrkdalen Hotel and four-star Fleischer’s Hotel, as in Voss, well as ski passes and ski hire, see Skiweekends and Flexiski.
- This article was also published in The Scotsman.