I visited Verbier, a mountain village in the Val de Bagnes region of Switzerland. It is well known for being a hotspot for skiers and snowboarders in winter. Meanwhile, in summer, there is a wealth of other activities to enjoy, including hiking, trail running, mountain biking and road cycling. My first adventure during a short break to the area was a guided hike to the summit of Le Fou.
Guided hike: Mountain trails, flora, fauna and a high summit
It’s easily possible to enjoy a range of self-guided hikes from Verbier, but if you walk with a guide you’ll enjoy a much more immersive experience. Having walked with UIMLA certified guide Marie Berazategui, of Wild Alps, on a previous trip to the region, I knew I would be treated to a great route with a wealth of local information about the mountains, flora and fauna.
Marie customised the hiking route to suit my fitness level and desires to take in some views from higher altitude. The route made use of several gondolas at the start and finish. If you stay in Verbier accommodation, you are issued with a Verbier Infinite Playground Pass (VIP PASS) that provides free access to the gondola network in the area.
We left Verbier – which is situated at around 1500m elevation – and took the Médran II lift to reach Les Ruinettes at the start of the hike at some 2200 elevation. Following a wide track, we climbed and contoured on a mostly gentle gradient north-easterly and then north along the route of La Planie.
Rising up to our right were the lower slopes of some very high peaks, including Attelas (2727m), Mont Gelé (3023m) and Chessoure (2740m), while below us, to the left, I could see the tiny buildings of now-distant Verbier below.
As if by magic, just as I asked Marie about the chance of seeing marmotte, a mother and baby popped up just above our path and provided several minutes of extremely cute entertainment. We do not have marmottes in the UK but I explained that we sometimes see pine marten, mountain foxes and badgers in the wild.
Hiking at an amiable pace, Marie was happy to stop whenever I wanted to ask about a flower I didn’t know – there were plenty of these – and she also took the time to point out plants that she thought might interest me.
Maire showed me how to identify arnica, which is used topically for a wide range of conditions, including bruises, sprains and muscular ache, and named, among many other plants, orchids, Alpenrose, Leopard’s Bane, Phyteuma, Gaillardia (blanketflower), moss campion, mountain houseleek, Valerian, Alpine poppy, mountain avens and Alpine forget-me-not.
I was wowed by the huge variety and spectrum of colours of wildflowers blanketing the slopes and meadows throughout our walk.
Like the UK, the Alps had not had a great start to summer with unseasonably cold and wet conditions. But, as Marie said, “The rain has been good for the flowers.” She added that she could not recall ever seeing such a great display of wildflowers in July. I felt fortunate to be witnessing it.
We also heard the cries of spotted nutcrackers and stopped to gaze up at several spectacular waterfalls that fell tumultuously down rocky slopes from high lakes. At the base of one, Marie led us up a narrower path that climbed beside the frothy white water.
Trails and signposts
Another surprise during our hike was less natural. The trails feature many waymarkers, including metal signage and painted rocks. The different colours of the rock motifs indicate the grade of the route, from easier to advanced. It’s very rare to see this sort of signage in the Scottish mountains and I was in two minds about what I felt about this.
On the one hand, I prefer to walk in hills and mountains that are not scarred by signposting, yet, on the other hand, the route finding is a great deal easier when you have signage to follow. I also wondered if people are lulled into a false sense of security by following way markers and end up in trouble in poorer weather, or, if on the contrary, the signs keep them on the right track?
As I walked I mulled over the pros and cons of mountain trail signage.
Walking to lakes and a summit
For the next section of our 13km walk, we climbed more steeply to reach the shore of a lake, Lac des Vaux. The water was very clear but also looked icy cold. By now we had reached above 2500m elevation and the views across the wider landscape were breathtaking.
We retraced our steps back downhill a little, before continuing on a path, still signposted, and heading northeasterly. Passing the shore of another lake, we contoured and climbed more gently again, before a steeper section with more significant drops to the side.
Marie urged me to take my time, which I did, although I am very used to this sort of terrain in the Scottish mountains. The path continued to be easy to follow and I relished the views.
Our aim was Le Fou at 2609m, which was difficult to miss thanks to two large cairns and a wooden cross. As I was to discover during my time in Verbier, it’s quite common to find wooden crosses on mountain tops.
By the way, Le Fou translates as “fool”. I felt very far from being a fool that day because the peak seemed like a perfectly brilliant place to be on a sunny Tuesday.
Descent by foot and gondola
Heading north-north-west off the summit, we descended until the stiff breeze had dropped and we could find a rock to perch on to eat our lunch. The hot sunshine and gorgeous 360-degree views gave Marie and I reason to stay for a while.
We spent time trying to identify a large bird of prey that had swooped into our vision in the blue sky above. While I was sure the bird was large enough to be an eagle, Marie has much greater knowledge and told me it was more likely to be a buzzard.
Our only time constraint of the day was to reach a gondola further downhill at La Tzoumaz. The last gondola downhill was around 4pm and we didn’t want to miss this because the ride would be welcome at the end of a hot mountain hike.
Finally leaving our rock, we continued on a well-trodden path downhill, before reaching a forested area that felt cooler. Marie continued to identify flowers and also trees for me as we strolled onwards into a lush meadow, so typical of Swiss regions, and, of course, encountered a Swiss herd of cows replete with ringing bells.
I was thankful that Marie seemed confident among the cows and she told them to move off the path (which they did!).
The final section of the hike returned to a wider track through a lower section of the valley. Having enjoyed almost complete solitude in the mountains, we now met a fairly constant procession people. It didn’t feel busy but rather we knew we were growing closer to a village again.
At La Tzoumaz, which operates as a ski resort in the winter, we boarded a gondola – again making use of the VIP pass – and enjoyed the final descent towards Verbier without needing to do anything more than sit and take in the views. The gondola was small and somewhat old-fashioned compared to others in the area but still served us well.
We alighted the gondola at Verbier Les Creux and then waited at a nearby bus stop for a bus to return us to Verbier centre. (Later in the trip, I walked from Verbier Les Creux to Verbier Centre and it took only 15 minutes downhill and 20 minutes uphill.)
Saying a fond goodbye and thanks to Marie I headed to Lumi Bar, which was to become my daily afternoon habit, for a small local beer and to enjoy sitting in the sunshine and looking out over a horizon of high mountain peaks.
Where else to walk around Verbier?
A hiking trails map – Itinéraires Randonnées – offers an overview of 40 trails walks around the Verbier area. You can pick these up in tourist information outlets. Also see www.verbier.ch.
Trail running and cycling from Verbier
- My article about a great guided trail run from Verbier.
- I rode a great 62km road cycle tour from Verbier, too.
Travel and accommodation
Where to stay?
I enjoyed a hosted trip to Verbier and stayed at 3-star Hôtel La Rotonde. The price for seven-night stay starts from £1186 per room based on two sharing. Breakfast is included. (Summer 2024 prices.)
How to get there
I flew with KLM from Inverness to Amsterdam to Geneva, return, costing from £348 with KLM (summer 24).
Transfers
Swiss Travel System provides a range of exclusive travel passes and tickets for visitors from abroad. The Swiss Travel Pass offers unlimited travel on consecutive days throughout the Swiss Travel System rail, bus and boat network.
This pass also covers scenic routes and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities, and includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which allows you free entrance to 500 museums and exhibitions.
Prices start from £186 for a three-day second-class ticket.
A first-class, return train ticket from Geneva Airport to Verbier costs from £69. See: www.sbb.ch
Getting around
The Verbier Infinite Playground Pass (VIP pass) is issued to all guests staying for a minimum of one night in the region Verbier, Val de Bagnes or La Tzoumaz. This includes:
- Free access to the gondola for pedestrians or at 50% for bikers
- Free public transport by bus
- More than 40 free activities, or at preferential rates.
Where to eat in Verbier?
Every meal was excellent. All restaurants were an easy walk for the hotel.
- * While the trip was hosted, the views and opinions in this article are entirely my own.