After two days of active fun in Verbier, including a guided hike and a guide trail run, I expected my legs to feel a bit jaded during a bike ride. The aim was a road ride of some 60km with around 2000m of ascent. This sounded fairly daunting although I knew it would be a great way to see more of the region around the Swiss village.
The first climb from Verbier
I was lucky to have an experienced cyclist, Valerie Pellissier, of Val Bike, to guide me. I picked up a hire bike from Medran Sports, before we rode out of Verbier and uphill. In fact, the up went on for about 675m of total ascent and I knew then it would be a tough day in the saddle.
But Valerie was great company and, as we rode at my pace, we chatted. I always enjoy meeting outdoorsy people and it quickly felt like Valerie and I would get on very well.
The best way to tackle a long uphill stretch is to slip into an easy gear and try to keep turning the pedals. I would have liked a couple of extra easier gears but I think this was more to do with my lack of time on a bike in recent years than the steepness.
The gradient was rarely very steep, but rather the incline kept on going – and going.
The first summit was Croix des Coeur at 2175m elevation, where we stopped for a coffee at a perfectly located mountain cafe. The views over Verbier and the many surrounding peaks were stunning.
It was already a hot day (at 10am) and I was happy to be on a bike rather than trail running or walking. I like cycling in hot temperatures, while I find walking and running relatively hard when it is warm.
A descent to the Rhone valley
The descent after a long climb is always a joy. Valerie and I sped downhill on a zig-zagging road of mostly good tarmac, passing through La Tzoumaz to eventually reach the Rhone valley at some 500m elevation. Yes, that was a downhill ride of 1675m!
The valley floor was hot and quite humid but the next section was delightfully flat. The landscape is lush in the Rhone valley with field after field of grape vines and apricot trees. High above us rose the steep slopes of numerous mountains.
Another climb – this time much longer
The flat section didn’t last long and at the town of Saxon we began another climb. This ascent was far longer – some 15km – and included around 1200m of total climb. At first, I felt fine and my legs had warmed up enough to enjoy the steady uphill pace.
I kept pushing and I was determined not to stop but the heat eventually got to me and I began to run out of fuel. Valerie was brilliant and encouraging me on and she gave me the mental strength to know I’d make it finally to Col du Lein at 1685m elevation.
It was actually my shoulders that caused the most pain rather than my legs. The bike was great but not the best fit for my torso, which meant I was a bit over-stretched.
As I rode, I tried to remind myself of the rewards of a big hill climb, including the superb views – there were plenty of those – and the promise of a bite to eat at the top. Finally, Valerie told me it was just a few more kilometres to reach Col du Lein, where she said there was a lovely mountain restaurant.
After many kilometres of tarmac, we finished the ascent on a dusty track and, I confess, I was very ready to get off the bike and eat.
A plate of local meats and cheese with bread plus a refreshing cola helped to boost my flagging energy levels. Valerie also reminded me that we would be riding downhill for most of the rest of the ride!
It turned out to be such a joyful descent. Long, sweeping turns and fantastic mountain and valley views took us all the way back to Le Châble.
Now, I could have then ridden back uphill to Verbier but why would I do that when I could load my bike on to a gondola and sit down for the final climb?
There are many other cycling routes in the Verbier area – both on road and mountain bike trails. The tourist office has plenty of leaflets or you could book a guide. See Verbier.
What else is there to do from Verbier?
Also see: Guided walk from Verbier and guided trail run from Verbier.
I was hosted on the trip to Verbier but all views are my own.