I am a keen and experienced walker in Scotland and I enjoy many solo hikes, but I was a little nervous about planning my own self-guided walking holiday in the high mountains of the Dolomites, in north-eastern Italy. So, for a recent trip, I booked with the holiday company Walks Worldwide. Here are my thoughts on this type of holiday.
Why book with a walking company?
I had a list of concerns: Getting lost; missing the highlights through poor planning; choosing the best routes to suit my fitness; finding the right accommodation; and having back up if I faced an emergency.
I decided that a walks holiday company would be a good solution because they would surely point me in the right direction when choosing day hikes and hopefully I could trust their on-the-ground knowledge and experience.
Walks Worldwide is a well-known company and new for 2024 is an expanded list of Western Europe holidays, including the Trails of The Dolomites. The full holiday is seven days, based in the mountain town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, with daily hiking routes. The price includes transport by taxi when required, to each of the day’s routes. The holiday is graded as “moderate”.
Why the Italian Dolomites?
I enjoyed a road cycling holiday in the Dolomites some seven years ago, riding roads through valleys and over mountain passes. For example, a ride of Passo Giau and also cycling the challenging Stelvio pass.
The scenery of high mountains, towering cliffs of rock, deep valleys and alpine meadows is breath-taking.
Ever since, I’ve wanted to explore the mountains themselves. The Dolomites area has a vast network of hiking trails and it was “just” a case of choosing the right routes.
Walks Worldwide use experienced hikers in their local areas to plan the routes and each day’s route is uploaded to an app so that you can follow it. Many of the routes included additional loops if you want to hike further, or you enjoy getting a bit off the beaten tourist track.
There is also an additional – and very detailed – walking holiday downloadable “roadbook” that is sent by email.
I was very impressed with the information provided about the holiday and each walk. In particular, the app was superb. The routes can be used without need for GPS and at each junction, the app tells you which way to go with a voice message and also a photo of the direction.
Note that the app is only available when you book a trip with Walks Worldwide.
There are a couple of things worth noting, however. First, the map that is part of the app doesn’t offer the same level of detail as OS Maps do in the UK. The detail is adequate but I like to see more information about height markers and distance. OS Maps have more detailed contour lines and a kilometre grid.
I made use of an All Trails app for further navigation detail, although this is not necessary to follow the walks Worldwide routes.
Also, you need to make sure your phone battery will last the day. Even with the phone set to airplane mode, my battery started to drain due to the use of the app and taking photos and videos. I made use of a power bank as a back up charge.
Cortina D’Ampezzo as a base
Cortina D’Ampezzo makes a great base. The town is located beside the Boite river and in a beautiful alpine valley. It’s situated at a height of some 1200m above sea level. It’s around a two-hour bus journey from Geneva.
A well-known ski town in the winter, Cortina is also a popular destination for walkers, climbers and cyclists in then summer. Cortina has an atmosphere of being a place of affluence and many of the hotels, restaurants and shops looked to be quite high end, although there were also some more affordable options.
It was great to have my room booked by Walks Worldwide in Hotel Serena. I had a single en-suite room in the three-star hotel, which was perfectly adequate for the stay. The room wasn’t huge but it had a balcony with a mountain view, a fairly large shower-room, bed, desk and wardrobe. It was spotlessly clean. A self-service breakfast was included with hot and cold foods.
I discovered some great restaurants for evening meals and refuelled on pizza and pasta, plus red wine.
How to travel
Walks Worldwide trips to the Dolomites can be booked with, or without, return flights included and start at £1275pp. The package includes six nights’ B&B, GPX/downloads and transfers to and from hotel to trailhead for the daily walks.
I travelled from Scotland so I took two flights with EasyJet, one from Inverness to Gatwick and then Gatwick to Venice.
Trails and signposting in the Dolomites
The trails network in the Dolomites is vast, developed and signposted. It’s very similar to the Alps. Route finding is relatively easy and it was made even easier thanks to pre-uploaded routes on the Walks Worldwide app.
Hiking route highlights in the Dolomites
I walked three routes during a four-day trip with Walks Worldwide. I was very happy with the suggested routes, which visited many iconic locations in the Dolomites.
Falzarego Pass to Valparola
Planned route:
Distance: 15.5km
Start and finish height: 2019m
Highest point: 2677m
I followed most of the suggested route but added in an extra climb to a viewpoint. I also took a couple of wrong turns, which the app quickly alerted me to. This meant my actual route was 18km with 1400m of total ascent. The highest point reached was 2742m at Lagazuoi Piccolo.
The tracks and paths are well-made with a good base, although they are rocky and stoney in places. A dump of snow in the week before meant some of the higher paths were covered in snow and some ice.
Highlights included the spectacular views across mountain peaks near and far. I spent most of the day looking upwards and out towards the horizon, relishing many amazing peaks and rock formations. The Dolomite rocks are like no other I’ve seen with outcrops and jagged edges soaring high into the sky.
I stared in wonder at the chunky massif of Averau and the Cinque Torri, which takes the form of five huge towers of pale grey dolomite rock. In the distance, the mountain of Marmolada was identifiable thanks to its shape and a glacier coat. The great peak is the highest summit in the Dolomites at 3342m.
As well as the views, the route also passes several ruins of historic military installations. The defence galleries were dug into the rock by the Italian military to defend this border line against the Austrians during World War I.
During the day’s walk there were various options to detour to viewpoints, such as a 200m ascent on a snowy, zig-zagging path toward Lagazuoi Piccolo. The path also passes Rifugio Lagazuio.
This section seemed suddenly busy with other people and I realised that it was because a gondola ascends from Falzarego to Lagazuoi and removes a lot of the ascent that I had just completed.
However, apart from this area, and the start and finish of the full route, the trails were pleasingly quiet. I travelled in September and I can imagine they might be more crowded mid-summer.
Returning back downhill from Lagazuio, the app directed me to turn north to join an undulating path that lead to picturesque Lagacio lake, before another steep and zig-zagging descent to a pretty pasture where I spotted the Scotini Hut. While I enjoyed some refreshments, I asked to use a plug point to recharge my phone.
I was very grateful for the refuelling because the next part of the walk required more uphill, then a suddenly very steep descent via a narrow couloir.
Looking down over the snowy edge of a steep couloir, where the path seemed to have been consumed by deep snow. Yet, after a few tentative steps, making sure I had a firm grip underfoot, the path reappeared and I made much easier progress.
This proved to be the final challenge before reaching a wider and much easier-going track that led towards a short section of road.
Ahead was Rifugio Passo Valparola, which I walked around, again climbing a slight gradient before joining a path – muddy in places – that ran roughly parallel with the road, although keeping me neatly away from motorised traffic and cyclists.
Eventually I could see the road pass at Falzarego again, where I had set out from much earlier in the day. While I waited for a taxi to return me to Cortina, I ordered a small beer in the roadside gift shop. and refuge and sat looking up to the high point close to where I had walked only that morning. I reflected that it had been a very rewarding day.
Tre Cime and Mont Paterno
The Walks Worldwide app revealed four walk options and combinations.
Start height: 2309m
Highest point: 2528m
In the end I completed a distance of 15km, with a total ascent of 931m, although on the morning of the walk, as I got out of the taxi at the start point at the Auronzo Hut, it was so wet and cloudy that I wasn’t sure I’d manage 3k.
But just as the clouds had rolled over the mountains, so they disappeared about 15 minutes later and I decided that I would see where the tracks and weather took me. The day turned out to be a mix of cloudy and part-sunny, which made it atmospheric.
As with many honeypot locations in the Dolomites, the trails to – and along the foot of – Tre Cime’s south face were busy with other people. The Tre Cime di Lavaredo, to give the rocks their proper name, mean the Three Peaks of Lavaredo and the impressive rocky towers form a row of three huge, jagged teeth.
Thankfully, once the Tri Came had been viewed, most of the walkers appeared to be keen to head west to make a short circuit by walking a path skirting the north faces of the Tri Cime, or to head further north to reach another attraction, the Locatelli Hut. I did eventually reach this refuge, but I was vey happy to take a long – and quiet – detour route first.
Striking off to the east, where few other people were venturing, afforded me peaceful paths and even more glorious vistas. This route is known as the Paterno Tour – and named after Monte Paterno, itself a fabulously high and pointed rock formation. A three-sided route of some 7.5km, circuits below Mt Patenro, as well as several other high peaks.
I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of the loop, which descended at first and then climbed steeply with lots of zig-zags to reach a high point on a snowy pass of more than 2500m.
This was still 250m below the summit of Monte Paterno but without climbing kit, skill or appetite it was high enough for me.
Throughout the morning, I played cat and mouse with another walker. He was distinctive because we were both walking at a similarly brisk pace. At points, we stopped to chat and I learned he was visiting the Dolomites from Poland. He told me that while the weather in the Dolomites was not as good as he had hoped, it was a great deal better than a trip a month or so before to Scotland, when it had rained almost non-stop. (We have had a wet summer in Scotland!)
A long section of descent, passing beside a tranquil lake, then a short ascent brought me to the historic Locatelli Refuge. It was thronging with people but I really fancied a coffee and cake so I pushed through the crowds. Luckily, I had cash with me because the hut doesn’t accept cards for payment.
The rest of the route was busy again, although it was still very enjoyable. It’s easily possible to keep your eyes off the people by looking up at the mesmerising beauty of the Dolomite mountains. This final part of the hike included another view of the Tri Cime and wider vistas of mountains further afield.
I returned to the Auronzo just as the clouds descended again and enjoyed another coffee as I waited for a taxi pick up to take me back to Cortina.
Avervau and the Cinque Torri
Planned route:
Distance: 11km
Starting height: 2100m
Highest point: 2506m.
Again, my route statistics showed extra distance and I walked 13.5km in total. I recorded a total ascent of some 760m.
A taxi dropped me at the now familiar Falzarego Pass, where the app directed me to walk south, on trail 441, instead of north as for the hike (above) to Valparola. I had been greatly looking forward to this walk because it offers the chance to get up close to the famous rock formation of the Cinque Torri. As soon as anyone mentions the Dolomites, I think of the iconic five-towered Cinque Torri.
It was the only route during which I became a little confused by the trails on the ground and the route on my phone but I think this is because some new tracks have been built.
In the end, the paths led to the same place and after some to-ing and fro-ing and reassessing where I was, I got back on track.
It was a day of mostly good weather and I enjoyed sunshine and some blue sky as I walked. The track led me to a small rocky valley, where a path started to ascend. Looking back towards Mount Lagouzi, where I had been only a couple of days before, provided more superlative views. In fact, whatever direction I viewed, the vista was stunning.
I greatly enjoyed a short but scrambley section that reminded me of some sections of the Lairig Ghru in Scotland. There was nothing daunting about it but it made for some fun ascending using my hands, as well as my feet.
The next part of the walk followed a balcony path along the base of a high and steep rock face, again with awesome views, before I rounded a corner and spotted a path heading uphill towards Averau Hut.
As well as the app, there were plenty of signposts pointing me towards the refuge. There were also many more people milling about in this area.
It’s possible to take a chairlift up from the road to the Scoiatolli hut to access the Averau Refuge and to gain easier access to the Cinque Torri and it seemed plenty of people had done just this.
It was busy as I walked the path to the hut but I consoled myself with the fabulous mountain views. I enjoyed a coffee at the refuge and then headed back downhill to rejoin the day’s hiking circuit.
I passed the top of the chairlift and then Scoiatolli Hut before joining a ridgeline trail towards the Cinque Torri. It is only at close proximity that you can truly understand the magnificent stature of this rock formation.
My app directions sent me next on the”Giro delle Torri” (Tower Loop) trail, which provided a walk back through history to World War I. The Cinque Torri was occupied by the Italian army and I stopped to read a series of information boards and to try to comprehend what life might have been like during many battles.
Descending further, I joined a wide track that led more gently downhill through a forest of tall larch trees and Swiss pine, before passing along the shore of Bai dei Done Lake.
The next section of the route as I closed a loop back to the start followed an undulating path that was rather wet and muddy in places. Before long, I could see and hear evidence of the nearby road, although the route ensured I stayed away from the traffic.
Back at the refuge, I sat with a coffee, awaiting my taxi and enjoyed chatting to a group of men from northern England who were on a cycling tour of the Dolomites. We all agreed that while the weather had been a bit unseasonal, there had been more than enough hours of clear views to absorb the magnificent scenery.
What about via ferrata?
I was asked a few times by friends about whether I tried some of the many via ferrata routes in the Dolomites. I have experienced via ferrata before and I have to confess it’s not my thing. I am not a fan of exposed heights. However, I should assure you that there are many via ferrata routes and they would most definitely provide a great experience and superb views.
Walks Worldwide: Find out more
You can find out more about the Walks Worldwide trip to the Dolomites and many other walking areas. A self-guided walking holiday is a great way to see the highlights thanks to well-prepared and detailed routes. I really enjoyed it as a solo hiker and I hope to do similar holidays in other locations.
- I travelled on a courtesy short break, facilitated by Walks Worldwide and EasyJet.